Care Instructions

 

Caring for your board
It’s fair to assume that running a sharp knife across your board will not improve its looks. That being said, the boards are made of close grain hardwoods and are very durable.  End grain boards are “self-healing,” meaning that they show fewer knife marks.  They are also gentler on your knives. Sharp or serrated knives should not be used on any of the epoxy surfaces in order to avoid scratches.
The wood, Titebond 3 glue, mineral oil, and beeswax used for your board are all food-safe.  The screws on the bottom are stainless steel.
While your board cures, you may notice oil coming to the surface.  This is normal.  Just keep wiping it away with paper towel.  It will stop once the board is fully cured.
The boards are waterproof, but DO NOT PUT THEM IN A DISHWASHER. When not in use, it is best to store your board on its side. This prevents warping. Applying food-grade mineral oil to the board keeps the surface conditioned and water-resistant.  Boards can be polished periodically with a little bit of the paste supplied with your board.  Use an old t-shirt or other lint-free rag to apply a thin layer.  Let it sit on the surface for a while and then rub it in.  Howard Butcher Block and Walrus wax and oil conditioners are popular commercial products. Minor rough areas or glue ridges can be treated by gently sanding with 600 grit (or finer) sandpaper. This won’t leave marks, and it will restore the surface to a glass-smooth finish.

Boards With Resin Segments, i.e. "River Boards, etc."

Same as above except that it is not recommended to use sharp or serrated knives on any of the resin areas in order to prevent scratching.

Wood Bowls

Same basic instructions as listed in the first section pertaining to all-wood boards.