FAQ

Q. What is the best way to care for my products?

A: Caring for your boards
It’s fair to assume that running a sharp knife across your board will not improve its looks. That being said, the boards are made of close grain hardwoods and are very durable.  End grain boards are “self-healing,” meaning that they show fewer knife marks.  They are also gentler on your knives. Sharp or serrated knives should not be used on any of the epoxy surfaces in order to avoid scratches.
The wood, Titebond 3 glue, mineral oil, and beeswax used for your board are all food-safe.  The screws on the bottom are stainless steel.
While your board cures, you may notice oil coming to the surface.  This is normal.  Just keep wiping it away with paper towel.  It will stop once the board is fully cured.
The boards are waterproof, but DO NOT PUT THEM IN A DISHWASHER. When not in use, it is best to store your board on its side. This prevents warping. Applying food-grade mineral oil to the board keeps the surface conditioned and water-resistant.  Boards can be polished periodically with a little bit of the paste supplied with your board.  Use an old t-shirt or other lint-free rag to apply a thin layer.  Let it sit on the surface for a while and then rub it in.  Howard Butcher Block and Walrus wax and oil conditioners are popular commercial products. Minor rough areas or glue ridges can be treated by gently sanding with 600 grit (or finer) sandpaper. This won’t leave marks, and it will restore the surface to a glass-smooth finish.

Caring for Boards With Resin Segments, i.e. "River Boards, etc."

Same as above except that it is not recommended to use sharp or serrated knives on any of the resin areas in order to prevent scratching.

Caring for Wood Bowls

For bowls finished with mineral oil and beeswax paste, same basic instructions as listed in the first section pertaining to all-wood boards.  Bowls with glossy finish don't require anything other than occasional application of a thin layer of paste wax.  We use Renaissance wax, but any paste wax such as Minwax, etc. is suitable.

Q: Why do I see residue on the cloth when I wipe my new board?

A: No stains or artificial dyes were used in making your product(s).  Several stages of sanding are part of the production process.  Initially, when you wash or wipe your board, you will see a small amount of residue on the wiping fabric comprised of fine sanding particles which match the color of the native wood species.  

Q: Why does my board feel like it has ridges?

A: Chances are that your board was as smooth as glass when you bought it. And that may be part of the reason WHY you bought it.  But now you can feel ridges between the wood sections.  This is common and easily remedied. It happens because wood and glue expand and contract with changes in ambient temperature and humidity.  Take a piece of 1200 grit sandpaper and rub it vigorously in circular motions over the surface.  That won't leave marks, and your glassy surface texture will be restored!

Q:  Why is Everything So Expensive?

A:  A better question might be, "Why don't  things cost more?" In order to make a quality end grain board, for example, you need to invest in a jointer, a planer, a table saw, a bandsaw, a dust collecting system, an air compressor, a belt sander, a drum sander, a random orbital sander, and sometimes a jigsaw or scroll saw, a band saw, a drill press and a spindle sander.  The keepsake boxes and other items with various contours require additional specialty sanding hardware and disposable pads or cylinders.  All these tools have parts that break, need sharpening and maintenance, or need replacement. Several jigs need to be made or purchased to be used for trimming or re-sawing the boards, creating juice grooves, rounding the edges, creating recesses on the sides, cutting grooves for inlay strips, etc.   I use plenty of Titebond 3 glue to ensure that the boards are strong.  All the boards are saturated with high-grade, food-grade mineral oil and are finished with a beeswax and oil combination paste.    Quality lumber is relatively expensive, and prices are rising along with all the other commodities in our economy these days.  For the river boards, high-quality and relatively expensive epoxy is used.  Some of the charcuterie boards require the use of silicone molds which cost significantly more than the board being made within them.  The shop's air filters and my respirator filters are replaced regularly.  I don't skimp on shipping supplies because I want you to receive one intact board instead of two halves when the package arrives on your doorstep. 

Q:  How much of your fees would you consider to be labor charges?

A:  For many, if not all, of the products, my labor compensation is below minimal wage guidelines.  There  is quite a bit of labor involved (see the tutorial on how to make a board in my blog section). I have discovered that woodworking doesn't pay as well as performing orthopedic surgery.  And that's fine.  I enjoy making the pieces.  The less enjoyable and time-consuming steps in making these items include driving to the lumber yard to select pieces of raw lumber.  Cutting the boards to size and milling the blanks to ensure accuracy can take several hours for each batch of boards.  Sanding from 60 grit up to 320 grit is a critical, tedious step that provides hours of listening to podcasts, music, and audiobooks.  And then it's time to haul off the sawdust, clean up a big mess, sharpen blades and bits, etc. to get ready for the next round...

Q:  What's the difference between end grain and edge grain? 

A:  From the artist's perspective, end grain boards involve more steps and are often significantly more challenging to make.  Designs can be much more unique and interesting with end grain boards.  Edge grain boards are much easier to make.  They can be enhanced with additional steps such as adding inlay strips.  This summary by Daniel Rogers in the July, 2021 Kitchenzad nicely summarizes the differences between the two boards.

Q:  Why does my board seem to be “leaking” oil?

A:  Not to worry! Your board was conditioned with a copious amount of mineral oil. It is common for new boards to exude some of that saturation early on. Just wipe off the oil with a paper towel. That phenomenon confirms that you have purchased a properly conditioned board, and it will end once the excess has worked its way out.

Q:  Does my keepsake or jewelry box need to be conditioned?

A:  Your box has several coats of finish, so you shouldn't need to tend to it.  Occasionally, a very thin application of finishing wax buffed with a lint-free cloth after dusting can't hurt and may make it sparkle to your liking.